It's been long overdue but we're finally on the final part of this worklog! It wasn't easy, everything looks so complex and advance I couldn't even imagine how I'm going to go through with this but I did it and it turned out great! This project has been my favorite so far and I'm really proud of it.
Yang Xiao Long Prosthetic Arm Tutorial >>
Boot cover tutorial >>
The most difficult part was drafting the patterns. There was a lot going on in the entire costume and for a long time I was stuck just trying to figure out which part goes where, how to draft the patterns and what materials to use.
After three attempts, I was finally happy with my drafts.
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| so messy, just like my life |
When transferring drafts into pattern, I used a few old patterns that are close to the structure of my draft as a guide to build my pattern from.
For Yang's jacket I used a generic bodice pattern for the overall base structure and my previous Yang patterns for the length and dart placements since they're basically the same.
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| just some generic bodice pattern |
It's kind of hard to explain how I drafted the patterns without some visual guide but here are some video notes I took while constructing them.
(Click full screen to see better)
right panel
left panel
Note: I said right but it's for the left side of the body. It's because of the reference photos. Please make sure you always double check if you're making one yourself.
armhole/shoulder
I apologize if it's a little incoherent, this was suppose to be notes for myself for when I write this worklog but I figure it's better than my nonsensical writing. I hope it still makes sense.
The back panel was simpler. I just traced one of the front panels, get its center line and eyeballed the triangular slit in the middle.
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| right, left and half of the back panel test pattern |
I wasn't very much confident with my patterns yet so I tested them out first on a cheaper fabric. After I'm satisfied with the fit, I adjusted some darts and added them to my patterns. I used a princess seam that goes from the shoulder all the way to the bottom because it's the closest to what it looks like on the pattern.
For the sleeves, I also used the generic pattern that comes with the generic bodice pattern but since I extended 2cm from the shoulder of the armhole area, I lowered the tip of the curve by 2cm and readjusted the curve. I wasn't exactly sure if it's going to work so I did more tests and readjustments until I got the fit right. It's just eyeballing so I don't have anything much to tell on how I constructed it.
The hip capes and the belt flaps are basically just long rectangles and trapezoids respectively.
The belt flaps are asymmetrical from each other. The right side only has one while the left is made up of two and folded in half for the belt to go under it. The width should be less than half the circumference of my hips but greater than the width of the hip cape.
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| sleeve, half back and belt flap patterns |
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| hip cape width measurement |
The hip capes should have the same width as the bottom half of the jacket piece and length that reaches a little bit below the calf. It also has that diagonal seam detail along the center so I just cut the pattern the same way.
Once I'm done and satisfied with the patterns, it's time to transfer them to the actual fabric. I also cut another similar set for the lining. With the way the entire costume is designed, it's important to add lining since a lot of parts can be seen on both sides and we wouldn't want those extra seams and frayed edges to show. There are a lot of examples online on how to add the lining so I'm not going to elaborate on that part since it's going to be a lot of that here.
The jacket has an asymmetrical look so always make sure you're cutting on the right side and/or using the right color of fabric.
I used a separating zipper for the opening then sewed the rest of the pieces together and added the lining for a cleaner finish.
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| test fit |
For the sleeves, I added the strip details first along the center before attaching them to the main piece.
For the cuffs on the sleeves, I used the same method as this tutorial.
Initially, I used the shoulder part of my pattern as a base guide for the shoulder detail but when I tried to attach it, it was too short. It might be because of the bulk of the layers of fabric.
So I had to redo the pattern and this time I had to use the actual jacket as a base guide for better accuracy.
I transferred the final pattern to the the fabric and added the lining.
Then I attached the piece around the shoulder area and sewed as close to edge as I can.so it blends with the rest of outfit rather than looking like another layer.
The belt flaps and hip capes are also lined (orange for the capes) and finished with a gold trim biased edge except for the top sides of the hip capes.
I also made the hip capes detachable just like in the series and added a few snap buttons so the cape can attach itself to the inner side of the jacket.
To get that uneven layer look on the folded belt flap, I only have to change the fold to a perpendicular direction and adjusted a bit so the back is longer then ran a few hand stitches on the corner to keep in place.
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| butt check lol |
For the neck piece, I used a long strip of paper around my neck to measure how big the circumference I should go and how high along the neck it should be.
Then I made three strips from the final pattern.
The brown strip is interfaced and extended slightly to accommodate the Velcro for the opening. The orange strip is a tube that can be inserted (and removed if it's out for washing) with a 2mm thick craft foam for that added volume.
I also added snaps so that I can attach them together to avoid them jostling against each other when worn. The orange piece is placed slightly higher so that it peeks enough just right above the brown piece.
The last strip which I'll be calling a mini belt is about 1/3 the width (or just enough to fit whatever buckle you have) and a few cm longer than the rest of the strips. I added some sort of belt loops around the brown strip for the mini belt to go through. To keep it in place, I sewed the area near the buckle to the brown strip.
And finally to keep the neck piece poised in place even if I move around a lot, I sewed some strips on the jacket (keeping the stitches on the lining so that it wouldn't be visible on the outer side) with snaps on the other end that connects to the snaps on the inner brown piece.
And lastly, some button details for the jacket, belt and belt flaps and the outfit is done! I just bought a plain orange sports bra for the inner top and a pair of fitted black pants. I also decided to forgo those cuff thingies on her wrist (what do you call those?) since I'm wearing a full Ember Celica but I might make one in the future.
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| ta-da! I love how sturdy the neck piece looks |
Might schedule a photoshoot with a friend as soon as I get a better wig but here's a little preview of the entire cosplay worn for the meantime:
You can check out the arm and boot cover tutorial from the links posted on top.
I know this worklog is all over the place so feel free to ask any questions if it's too confusing and I'll get back to you as soon as I can.
Peace out! xx
Peace out! xx
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