Friday, September 21, 2018

Yang Xiao Long Post-Timeskip No-stretch Boot Cover Worklog / Tutorial


I'm back again with another boot cover DIY tutorial and this has been my favorite so far out of all the boot covers I've made because I've incorporated a lot of stuff I learned from my previous boot covers and the result exceeded my expectations. There were a couple of fitting problems and wayward stitches along the way but that was just me being sloppy due to con crunch lol.

So, yeah. This is part two of my Yang Xiao Long post-timeskip worklog series.

(Part 1 | Complete Worklog)

Materials:
  • Fabric
    • I basically just used two colors of non-stretch fabric here. Leather types would probably be well-suited for this and you wouldn't need to interface but my sewing machine wouldn't be able to handle it so I had to improvise. Work with whatever is easier for you.
    • Don't forget to have enough to include the lining
  • Interfacing (if you're using a normal fabric like i do)
  • 2 Metal zippers
    • For the zipper detail on the front... or if you can find exactly huge ones like those from the reference.
  • 2 hidden zippers (can at least reach from ankle to calf length)
  • Metal rings
    • At least 1" in radius
  • A pair of heeled, close-toed shoe for the base
    • I find making boot covers on a pair of high-heeled shoes easier because of the wider shin-feet angle
  • Cling wrap
  • Masking/Duct tape
  • Pattern paper


To sketch out the patterns, first get the basic boot structure by using the good-ol' cling wrap-tape method to get your feet mold.

Wear the base shoe first before covering the entire required area (including the bottom of the shoe) with cling wrap and masking tape.

Leave the heels area open.


The pattern will be divided into three major parts: The bottom (the shoe sole shape), the left half and the right half. Using the main reference as guide, sketch the extra pattern lines. Make sure the parts are labeled to avoid confusion.


(It's easier if you have a friend to help you with this.)

Once that is done, cut the pieces out and trace them on pattern paper.


Since the boots isn't exactly suppose to be form-fitting, I've also added about an extra quarter inch allowance (different from the seam allowance) on each side of the side patterns. But on the toe side, it tapers down to meet the pointed corner because that part connects to the bottom pattern piece.


Transfer the final patterns to the main fabric. Add seam allowance before cutting. Make sure you take note which is for the left and for the right.

Sew the pieces together and topstitch to flatten the seams. Leave the back part open for now.

Do the same thing for the lining.


For the front zipper detail, cut away a narrow strip about an eighth of an inch wide by 4-5 inches long from the upper front center of the main piece. Fold the raw edges inward and install the zipper.

(I also carefully cut a really small notch on each corner so that it can be folded inwards more easily. Be careful of fraying though, the gap might unnecessarily widen)


Next, transfer the patterns on the interfacing as well but don't add any seam allowance.


Sew the interfacing on the lining that's facing the wrong side of the main piece so that it will be sandwiched in between.

it looks wonky for now

Sew the main piece and the lining together.

First I sew the top side together with right sides facing each other then flipped them inside out. Once I properly aligned the two pieces together, I ran a topstitch all around the edge so that the pieces to keep it in place.

should look something like this now

Do the same thing for the bottom piece. The interfacing should be sandwiched between the lining and the main piece.

Next, sew the back piece close and attach the hidden zipper. It should be opening from the bottom.


Finally with the bootcover inside out, attach the bottom piece. Cut away excessive fabric as much as you can to avoid bunching but make sure you leave enough seam allowance to keep fraying hems away from ruining your stitches. You can use an overlock machine or a zigzag stitch for a cleaner finish.

Next is the detail on the toe front which looks like a type of metal toe guard but I'll be using fabric on this one as well since it's easier to put together pieces of the same material. For this, I'll be using the reverse side of a gold-colored satin fabric. It's a technique I learned from my old dressmaker if you just want a cheaper fabric with a soft sheen that doesn't look ugly on cameras.

Haven't had the chance to take photos of the progress since I was in a crunch but basically I used the bootcover pattern as guide to sketch the detail.


Get your fabric, fold it in two and trace the pattern on top of it. Add seam allowance and cut. Sew around the marked edge but leave one of the shorter side open so that you can turn it right side out after. Make sure you cut small notches on the corners to avoid bulking in that area. Turn the entire thing right side out and insert an interfacing for extra structure.  Fold the opening's seam allowance inwards and sew it shut.

For its other half, do the exact same thing but make sure the pattern is flipped horizontally.

And finally, repeat the same process for the other half of the pair.


For the ankle strap piece, measure the ankle area circumference first and divide by two. Extend the length by at least 3cm each on both sides.

Make the straps by folding the fabric in half with the right side inwards and sewing about 3cm away from the folded edge. Once you're done, open up and flatten the seams with flat iron before turning it right side out. Add interfacing inside for structure. You'll be needing about four of this.

Attach the strips on the rings and sew. Make sure you can slip your foot in and out of it so it doesn't get on the way while wearing the bootcover.


Next make those little straps that goes under the heels that will keep the rings in place. For this part I just folded the required length of bias tape in half lengthwise and sewed in place.


For the set of straps to be removable, sew one end on the ring (facing the open space) and add a pair of snaps to the other (facing the other foot).

forgive my crude illustration lol



That's about it. It's tedious but fairly easy once you figure everything out.

I hope I've explained the process properly but feel free to comment any questions regarding the tutorial and I'll get back to you as soon as I can. :)

No comments:

Post a Comment

Partner

Posts