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| Check out more photos of this cosplay here |
First of all, I made a big mistake of sewing the buttons on the wrong side. I looked at the reference photo and forgot to consider that it was a mirror image. I didn't have enough time and resources to do the entire thing again so I just pushed forward. With that in mind, here's my Asami Sato cosplay worklog and hopefully none would make the same mistake as I did if ever anyone decided to follow through with this. *kicks self*
I couldn't really figure out how to go about with the lapels/collar so I had to test my patterns first on a cheap fabric.
I had a lot of trouble getting the pieces to fit right but thank goodness it only took me two attempts on drafting the patterns.
This is what the basic top pattern looks like. I didn't bother putting any darts on the front since my boobs isn't really that big. However if yours are anything above B then I suggest you do or the shape will look awkward.
For the other side of the front piece, just flip the pattern and then trace. As for the back, fold the fabric in half and align the straight side of the pattern on the fold then trace. Don't forget to add at least an additional inch on both the inner sides of the front piece where they overlap when buttoning, or else it will be a really tight fit.
For the inside lapel, I only traced the area on the front that aligns the collar. As for the back, I only used the top part and added an extra 2 cm allowance on the bottom so that the frayed edge will not show once you fold the collar out
I sew around the shoulder and neck area of the the outer and inner pieces separately first.
Once that's done, align the two pieces together and sew around the outer edge with the right sides facing each other. Then turn them right side out. Make sure to snip around the corners first before flipping to avoid bulking and pay extra attention in making them nice and pointy after flipping. Sew around the edges again for a flatter finish.
Take note of the thread colors you use. Since the piece has different colored sides, make sure you use the right thread on its corresponding side or else the stitches will show.
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| This is how it should look like after |
As for the inner red lapel, I did the pattern the same way as the black one but only halfway through with the length since the we only need enough for it to be visible in the lapels. However, I did remove the extra seam allowance (except on the parts where you sew them together. you need seam allowance for that). Since it's an inner lapel, we only need it to be the exact same size of the earlier finished work once you sew them together.
Starting from one end of the red piece, gradually fold the fabric about half an inch inward then another pin to keep it in place. Then I sew as close to the edge as possible. I wanted to try slip stitching just like where I based this method from but it didn't end up as neatly as I wanted them to.
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| It still turned out better than I expected |
After those are done, I then attached the sleeves.
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| (Check the links for a better explanation of the lapel part) |
For the cuffs, I traced the bottom 10cm of my sleeve pattern.
I forgot to take photos on this part since I made a lot of experimenting and mistakes but I basically used the same method I did with the lapels but I connected both sides of the pieces first so you'll have three of those conic cylinder looking pieces for each arm.
Then overlap (align? insert? I hope I make sense here) the black and gray ones with right sides facing each other and sew around the wider opening. Turn right side out and sew again on the edge for a flatter finish.
For the red piece, insert on top of the black piece and pin in place. Make sure the pin is placed at least an inch away from the edge. Then fold about half an inch inwards and another pin to keep it in place.
Repeat for the other side
To connect the cuffs to the sleeves, make sure the sleeve and the cuffs are both on their right side. Insert the cuff inside the sleeve and align the cuff's smaller opening to the sleeve's opening. Take time adjusting so that the fit is perfect and you can't see any bulking. Sew around the edge then flip the cuff out from the inside and sew around the edge again to keep the cuff from moving and of course, for a flatter finish.
It can get pretty confusing a lot of times so make sure to carefully review first how the parts go together before finally sewing them.
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| (I used a slanted running stitch to keep the tape in place instead of pins. Then I just cut them off once done) |
For the sleeve details, I just used a black cotton bias tape and sew as close to both edges as I can.
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| huhuu yeh wrong side ;_; |
For the buttons, I started just slightly below where the lapel ends until right by the waist line and divided the distance by four for button placement. My machine doesn't have a buttonhole sewing feature to it so I had to do it by hand with this tutorial.
For the belt part, I used the same materials they use for bag straps (about an inch and a half wide) and just sew on some snaps for lock. It's cheaper than buying an actual belt (unless you already have one then no need to go through all the trouble).
For the skirt, I used a simple 3/4 circle skirt pattern (I also took the liberty of adding pockets because why not XD). I'm not going to go into details with this since there are already plenty of tutorials out there on circle skirts. Just google it.
The inner shirt is a turtleneck crop top (I ran out of fabric lol. It's not gonna be seen anyways) which I also made from scratch. Unfortunately, I forgot to take progress photos but will definitely write a separate tutorial post about it some time in the future since I'll be making another one for a friend.
That's about all the stuff I did. The rest are either on hand or store-bought. I wish there was a lighter colored leggings though but I couldn't find any shade similar to the reference.
For more Asami Sato cosplay photos. Check out my blog post here.
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